Travel Features : The Best of Nikko
Religious duality is a part of life in Japan. Births and marriages are observed with Shinto ceremonies while funerals follow Buddhist custom. For the Japanese, there is no conflict with the fact that a priest blesses their children, while a monk blesses their dead.
Back in the 6th century, two Buddhist saints removed the possibility of antagonism between Buddhism and Shinto with a simple declaration - Buddha was an embodiment of the old Shinto gods.
This resulting symbiosis between the two religions has grown over the centuries, and many believe is at its most profound in the mountain town of Nikko. Here, surrounded by giant cedars, many of Japan’s finest shrines and temples sit side by side in peace.
Shin-kyo Bridge
Legend states that 1,200 years ago the Buddhist monk Shodo Shonin was on a pilgrimage through the mountains of northern Japan. When he reached the uncrossable Daiya River, two giant serpents arose from the water and formed a bridge to the other side.
Shodo Shonin went on to found the first Buddhist temples at Nikko, and 800 years later, the Shin-kyo Bridge was built on the spot he first crossed the river. The elegant, deep red, bridge was once for the sole use of the shogun and his imperial messengers, but is now open to mere mortals willing to pay a small toll.
Rinnoji Temple
Shodo Shonin founded the Rinnoji Temple in 766 A.D., and a bronze statue of the monk stands in its grounds looking back at the town. Rinnoji is Nikko’s most important temple; its vast main hall contains three images of Buddha: the Amida-Nyorai Buddha, the Horse-head Kannon, and the thousand-armed Kannon. The sculptures, each around eight meters in height, are covered in gold leaf, an awe-inspiring site for both pilgrims and visitors.
Behind the main hall is the Sorinto, a giant bronze pillar inscribed with Buddhist texts. The Sorinto is said to not only ward of evil spirits, but also ensure the security of the entire nation.
Since the 17th Century the temple has been part of the Tendai Sect of Buddhism. One of the Tendai sect’s unique features is there dedication to physical training. At some point in their lives, Tendai monks will study at Mount Hiei near Kyoto. There, along with meditation and daily chores, they undertake daily marathons. During the seventh and final year of training, the monks run 84 kilometers on 100 consecutive days, making them some of the fittest athletes on the planet.
Futarasan Shrine
In Shinto the relationship between man and nature is sacred. The mountains and forests are divine, and at Futarasan Shrine, Nikko’s three mountain spirits are worshiped. The shrine was founded in 782 A.D. by Shodo Shonin and its setting — amongst giant cedars — personifies the philosophy of living harmoniously with nature. Unlike great churches or mosques that are often the most grandiose feature of a city, Nikko’s shrines and temples are hidden among the trees. Rather than their location being based on the ability to awe worshipers, they are situated in the presence of their gods, among nature.
Toshogu Shrine
Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa was the founder of a dynasty that ruled Japan for 250 years. He requested that on his death a modest mausoleum be built in Nikko, and in 1616, he was buried not far from Futarasan Shrine. Ieyasu’s grandson, Iemistu, had other ideas about what befit a shogun and a de facto god. In 1634, Iemitsu began construction on a mausoleum worthy of his grandfather. 1,500 artists, experts in carving, laquerware, painting, and guilding, worked for two years to create Toshogu Shrine. Unlike the understated minimalism of most Japanese shrines and temples, the craftsmen went for a “shock and awe” strategy leaving no doubt as to the wealth and power of Ieyasu and the entire Tokugawa clan.
Intricate carvings of flowers and animals cover every surface, while 2.5 million sheets of gold leaf stand out against the black wood. The Yomeimon Gate is the pinnacle of the artists’ work with over 400 hundred carvings. The shrine’s most famous carvings are a sleeping cat, and the three monkeys that hear no evil, speak no evil, and see no evil. Inside the Hall of the Medicine Buddha is a painting of a dragon that roars an echo when you clap your hands.
In 1650, a five-story pagoda was constructed beside the cedar avenue that leads to the entrance of the shrine. Its levels represent the five elements: earth, water, fire, wind and heaven. It was destroyed by fire but rebuilt in 1818 and is one of the few structures in Nikko that can compete for dominance with the tree line
Taiyuinbyo
Having honored his grandfather with a lavish mausoleum, Iemitsu Tokugawa made just as magnanimous a gesture by ordering that his own mausoleum should be constructed in the same style but on a slightly smaller scale.
Visitors walking through the ornate gateways are glared at by ferocious Nio guardians. Inside the honden (the inner sanctuary), is a suit of samurai armor worn by Iemitsu himself. While the workmanship is excellent, its most distinctive feature is its size. The shogun may have been a giant in terms military and political strategy, but he was, physically, a little man.
Riverside
From Toshogu Shrine it is a short walk downhill to the Daiwa River. A couple of kilometers upstream from the Shin-kyo Bridge, the river flows through a section of rifles and rock pools known as the Ganman-ga-fuchi Gorge. A trail runs alongside the river and a line of Buddhist jizo statues flank the path. The stone statues are guardians of babies who have died, and the adorning red bibs and hats are placed there by mothers protecting their children from the cold winter months.
Kegon Falls
The road that connects Nikko with Lake Chuzenji and Kegon Falls appears to have been designed for a Playstation 3 driving game. It winds its way up the valley, thirty hairpin bends in a row, with a precipitous drop always at your side.
Lake Chuzenji sits at the base of the dormant volcano Mount Nantai, one of Nikko’s three sacred mountains. As part of the national park, it is popular with visitors looking to immerse themselves in nature. Some use it as a base for hiking, while many take the easier option and use the cable car to reach the lookout at Akechidaira Plateau.
Most visitors, however, head straight for Kegon Falls where the Ojiri River plummets 97 meters (318 feet). An elevator takes visitors down 100 meters through the bedrock to a viewing platform from where there is an impressive view of the falls. During autumn the cascade has a backdrop of golden leaves while in winter the entire waterfall freezes in to a gargantuan natural ice sculpture.
When to go
Although cherry blossom season (in early April) is the best time to visit most places in Japan, Nikko is famous for its fall colors. There are also two major festivals in the year. On the May 17 and October 17 hundreds of locals dressed as samurai, cavalry, and archers parade up to Futarasan Shrine.
Getting There
The easiest way is to take the Tobu-Nikko line (a private line not covered by Japan Rail pass) from Asakusa Station in Tokyo. (Limited express Kegon costs ¥2620 1hour 41 minutes. The regular train costs ¥1300 and takes 2 hours 10 minutes)
JR pass holders should take the shinkansen from Ueno to Utsonomiya then the local train to Nikko.
Where to stay
There are many places to stay in Nikko, but finding accommodation can be a problem if you are heading up for a weekend during the fall or during a festival. Oyado Shinkyo Konishi is a reasonably priced ryokan in a prime location very close to Shin-kyo Bridge. Turtle Inn is very popular with foreigners and located near the Ganman-ga-fuchi Gorge.
View all Nikko images at Alamy.com
