Travel Features : The Best of Nagoya
It’s tough to be in fourth place. For sheer size Tokyo, Yokohama and Osaka take the Gold, Silver and Bronze. Meanwhile Nagoya, Japan’s fourth-biggest city is often overlooked. Nagoya, however, has a lot to offer, from an impressive castle and sacred shrines, to the latest in high-tech buildings and automobiles. Explore the city, and then use it as a base to discover the delights of central Japan.
Central Nagoya
Nagoya Castle
Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu ordered the construction of Nagoya castle in 1610. Similar to Osaka’s castle, it was built in the lowlands; its sheer size was its greatest defense. On the roof of the keep, gold statues of dolphins signified the lord’s wealth and power, but were also thought to safeguard against fires.
Immense castle walls and golden talismans were unable to protect the castle from air raids during World War II. On May 14, 1945 the main towers and the Hommaru Palace were consumed by fire. Three corner towers and three gates did survive, and by 1959, the main donjon had been rebuilt. Today, the interior of the building houses a museum along with artwork that escaped incineration. For locals, the castle is particularly popular in early April when numerous cherry trees blossom. In August, it hosts a festival with traditional music, folk dances and two thousand lanterns that allow the revelry to continue long after the sun goes down.
Atsuta Shrine
Atsuta Jingu is Japan’s second most important Shinto shrine. Founded nearly 2000 years ago, it contains the Kusanagi sacred sword, one of only three Imperial treasures. Although located in a busy city the shrine is hidden among ancient trees creating a serene atmosphere for contemplation. This serenity disappears, however, for the first 5 days of New Year, during which the shrine receives around three million visitors.
Osu Kannon Temple
Osu Kannon Temple is situated beside a busy shopping arcade, but rather than trying to remove itself from the bustle of commerce, the temple has embraced it. On the 18th and 24th of each month the grounds are filled with flea market vendors and bargain hunters. During the rest of the month a steady stream of locals pass through the temple as they make their way to and from work.
A City of Towers
Nagoya has a love, if not an obsession, with towers. Nagoya Tower, an Eiffel Tower lookalike, is the oldest TV tower in Japan. In 2002, Oasis 21 a futuristic building with an oval roof was constructed alongside the tower creating what is now a popular shopping and entertainment zone.
JR Central Towers is the world's largest train station by floor area. The two towers that surge up from the station are both over 50 stories in height. Nagoya’s latest skyscrapers cluster close by the station. In 2007 the 47-story Midland Square, and 40-story Lucent Tower were built, but it is the 2008 Mode Gakuen Spiral Tower that really pushed the architectural envelope. Appropriately, the gorgeous corkscrew building is home to a college teaching fashion design.
Toyota’s Town
The Toyota Motor Corporation is perhaps the beating heart of Nagoya. Although the factories are located in nearby Toyota City, the company seems to be woven into the very fabric of Nagoya. There’s a Toyota Museum of Industry and Technology just north of the main station, and a special Toyota Showroom takes pride of place in the lower floors of the Midland Square skyscraper. Just outside the city is the Toyota Automobile Museum, while visitors with more time (and a reservation) can even go on a plant tour of the factory in Toyota City. The people of Nagoya are justifiably proud of their local textile firm that became the world’s largest automaker.
East Nagoya
On the east side of the city is Higashiyama. The area’s main attraction is the Higashiyama Zoo and Botanical Gardens, which are particularly popular with local kindergarten classes. Overlooking the zoo and gardens is the futuristic looking Higashiyama Sky Tower whose panoramic observatory provides great views of the area. Although not an obvious place to visit, the nearby Heiwa Cemetery is a lovely peaceful park with numerous interesting memorials and temples.
About a kilometer west from the zoo is Toganji temple. This is well worth stopping by to see the 15-meter statue of Buddha flanked by elephants. For those in need of redemption, there is also a large wooden block that will remove your sins if touched with one hand. Another couple of kilometers back towards the city center is Nittaiji an international nonsectarian temple with an impressive five-story pagoda.
Near Nagoya
Inuyama
Just 30 minutes north of Nagoya, on the banks of the Kiso River, is Inuyama, a small commuter town with three themed attractions, Meiji Mura, Little World, and Japan Monkey Park. Meiji Mura is an open-air museum, which preserves buildings from the Meji period of Japanese history (1868-1912), including the lobby of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Imperial Hotel. For families, Little World introduces global cultures, while Japan Monkey Park has a wide selection of primates from tiny Marmosets to giant Gorillas. You can even become an exhibit by hanging out in the cage labeled Homo sapiens.
Sitting on a bluff overlooking the river is Inuyama-jo, one of Japan’s oldest castles. In contrast to Nagoya Castle, Inuyama-jo is small, its main defenses provided by steep cliffs and the wide river below. The castle has survived fire, earthquakes and modernization, and remains a fine example of feudal architecture. It is now designated as a national treasure of Japan.
Ise-Shima National Park
Ninety minutes south of Nagoya is a peninsular designated as the Ise-Shima National Park. The photogenic coastline is well worth exploring either by car or, for the more athletic, by bicycle. There are various commercial attractions including the Shima Spain Village, Mikimoto Pearl Island, Toba Aquarium and the Ise Azuchi-Momoya Bunka Mura. One of the area’s most famous, and by far the most photographed, place of interest is Futami - home of the two wedded rocks Meoto Iwa. The two rocks, husband and wife, are joined by a sacred rope of woven rice stalks. They represent the god and goddess Izanagi and Izanami who together created the islands of Japan.
The highlight of the national park is the Ise Grand Shrine, the most sacred shrine in Japan and a center of pilgrimage for followers of the Shinto religion. The Grand Shrine is made up of two main shrines, Geku and Naiku, that are located about six kilometers apart along with several smaller shrines throughout the city. Geku is dedicated to the god Toyouke, while Naiku enshrines Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess and ancestral god of the imperial family.
For some, it might be surprising that Japan’s most sacred sites are hidden within a forest of cypress and cedar. The simple understated architecture blends with the surrounding trees. This synchronicity with the environment is part of the very essence of Shinto where the natural world is considered divine. Following the cycle of life, death and renewal, the shrines are rebuilt every 20 years. In 2013, carpenters will erect the 62nd generation of the shrine.
Hikone
Ninety minutes northwest of Nagoya, beside Lake Biwa, is the town of Hikone, home to a beautiful black and white castle. Completed in 1622, it has managed to survive the centuries intact and is now designated a national treasure. More than a thousand cherry trees surround the castle making it a stunning place to visit in April. The Genkyu-en, with its carefully positioned trees, pagodas, ponds and bridges, is a fine example of a classical Japanese garden.
When to Go
Cherry Blossom usually blooms during the first week of April but this can vary by as much as two weeks depending on the weather. Mid summer will be hot and humid but it’s not too unpleasant unless you have to wear a suit all day.
The Honensai Fertility Festival is held mid March at the Tagata Shrine just north of Nagoya. A two-meter, 280-kilogram, wooden phallus is carried through the town ensuring the health and fertility of the town’s men. Music and dancing take place throughout the day in what is one of Japan’s most famous (or infamous) festivals.
Okkawa is a quiet commuter town for most of the year, but for two days in late March it is fueled by testosterone and alcohol as the Okkawa fighting festival takes place. Several dashi (giant wooden floats) are dragged through the city by teams of intoxicated men that jostle for position to pull and steer the floats. Once they reach the local shrine, the floats become miniature theatres with karakuri puppets performing short plays.
Nagoya is one of four cities (the others being Tokyo, Osaka and Fukuoka) that hosts at Grand Sumo Tournament. The Nagoya Basho takes place mid July and is a fantastic experience for anyone visiting Japan
Getting There
Nagoya is 54 minutes east of Osaka or 1 hour 40 minutes west of Tokyo on the Nozomi Shinkansen. Nagoya Airport (officially called Chūbu Centrair International Airport) is well serviced with domestic flights from across Japan including multiple flights each day to and from Okinawa. Limited Express trains connect the airport with the city center in around 30 minutes.
Getting Around
Nagoya has an efficient subway system along with J.R., Meitetsu and Kintetsu railway lines. Take the Meitetsu line north to Inuyama, and either the Kintetsu or J.R. lines south to Ise.
Where to Stay
As would be expected in a large city there is a wide selection of accommodation. However, the Westin Nagoya Castle hotel is unique in that it offers excellent views of the castle.
View all Nagoya images at Alamy.com
