Travel Features : The Best of Kamakura

Modernization and miniaturization may be the buzz words of 21st century Tokyo, but for some, Japan’s greatest treasures are ancient and colossal.

Kamakura was once the capital of Japan. For nearly 150 years, it was home to the Minamoto shoguns, and both military strength and religious devotion were prized. Now it is a place for quiet contemplation, less than an hour from the Yokohama-Tokyo metropolis. Kamakura’s shrines and temples have withstood the ravages of both man and nature, and remain as important centers of Shintoism and Zen Buddhism. During spring and autumn, the town remembers its history with festivals of dance, parades, and horseback archery. Kamakura’s greatest draw, however, is the Daibutsu, or Great Buddha. The giant copper statue sits gazing over the bay, inspiring visitors that there may be more to life than technological advancement.

Kamakura is home to 19 Shinto shrines and 65 Buddhist temples. Visitors could spend weeks exploring the entire area, but for most people, a day or two is just enough to see the best of Kamakura.

Kamakura Highlights

Engaku-ji Temple

Rather than get off the train at Kamakura’s main station, visitors should disembark five minutes earlier at Kita-Kamakura. Here, on the northern outskirts of the town, you are surrounded by giant cedars and bird song. In this tranquil setting, it is easy to understand why in 1282 Buddhists chose it as the location for a Zen temple. Tokimune Hojo founded the temple to express his gratitude to his Chinese Zen master, Bukko Kokushi, and to pray for all soldiers who had died in the bloody wars between Japan and Mongolia. Visitors, like pilgrims before them, enter through the massive two-story San-mon (Main Gate). The gate was rebuilt in 1780 and survived the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake, a testament to its sound construction. The Engaku-ji bell, cast in 1301, is the largest bell in Kamakura and a national treasure. It is not, however, the temple’s most famous relic. The Shari-den Hall houses a reliquary that is said to contain a tooth of Buddha.

Kencho-ji Temple

Half a mile south west of Engaku-ji is Kencho-ji, the most important of Kamakura’s Zen temples, and headquarters of the Rinzai sect of Buddhism. There is a local legend that the priests once gave food to a hungry raccoon. Later, to show its gratitude, the raccoon transformed into a monk and helped build the main gate of the temple. The gate is officially titled the San-mon, but is commonly known as Tanuki-mon (Raccoon Gate).

Beside the San-mon is a bronze bell that was cast in 1255. As with the bell at Engaku-ji, it is a national treasure, but the aging three-ton bell is so delicate that it is now only tolled to ring in the New Year.

Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu Shrine

In 1180, after defeating his enemies and becoming shogun of Japan, Yoritomo Minamoto built Hachiman-gu shrine as a symbol of his power, and reverence to the god of war. The shrine is loud and brash, in stark contrast to the subdued Zen temples of north Kamakura. Imposing torii gates and vermillion temple buildings stand out in the bright sunshine.

There are three bridges at the entrance to the shrine complex, the middle one is steeply arched and was for the sole use of the shogun. The Minamoto clan, however, had some serious family dysfunction that wealth and power couldn’t solve. A massive ginkgo tree near the shrine, thought to be over a thousand years old, has been witness to some of this violent history. In 1219, Kyugyo Minamoto hid behind the tree, waiting for his uncle (the third shogun) to visit the shrine. Kyugyo stabbed his uncle, and was then killed by the shogun’s guards. The reason for the assassination is still unknown.

Jomyo-ji Temple

Jomyo-ji is a Zen temple located in the quieter, eastern part of Kamakura. Although ranked as merely the fifth-most important Zen temple in Kamakura, it is worth a visit to experience the tranquility of its landscaped garden. The immaculate sand and rock garden has been the setting for tea ceremonies for nearly 500 years. Modern-day travelers can still experience a cup of Japan’s iconic green tea in this truly serene location.

Hase-dera Temple

The west side of Kamakura is known as Hase, and is the location of Hase-dera Temple. Set on the side of Mt. Kannon, the upper part of the temple’s gardens provide a view of Yuigahama Beach and Sugiyama Bay. The lower gardens are beautifully laid out with elegant ponds surrounded by magnolias, azaleas and cherry trees.

It is said that Hase-dera was founded when a nine-meter wooden carving of the eleven-faced Kannon drifted ashore emitting rays of holy light. It had been one of two images carved in 721 from the trunk of a giant camphor tree. The eleven faces show the stages of enlightenment and allow Kannon to watch over those in need of her help. It is Japan’s tallest wooden sculpture and a place of pilgrimage for Buddhists.

At the Sutra repository, revolving rinzo (prayer drums) contain Buddhist scriptures. Rather than reading the entire texts, worshipers simply rotate the drum once and receive the same level of religious merit.

The most poignant part of the temple complex is the Jizo-dou Hall dedicated to Jizo, the guardian of children’s souls. Beside the hall are thousands of small stone Jizo figures, each remembering a child that died before ever being born. In winter, many of the miniatures wear tiny hats and scarves made by grieving mothers.

The Great Buddha

The Daibutsu (Great Buddha) is a bronze statue of Amida Buddha cast in1252. At 13.35 meters (44 feet) in height and 100 tons in weight, it is truly colossal. The statue was cleverly designed with slightly distorted proportions so that it looks balanced when viewed from its base. As with Japan’s other giant bronze Buddha in Nara, it was originally housed in a vast wooden hall. Unlike Nara, Kamakura was hit by a huge tsunami in 1945 that washed away the hall. Since then, Kamakura’s Great Buddha has sat out in the elements, an iconic symbol not just for Kamakura, but for all Japan.

Buddha’s birthday is celebrated on April 8th, and on that day, special ceremonies are held beneath the statue, with blessings given by the temple’s senior priests. The priests also hand out sachets of ama-cha (sweet tea). The tea, made from hydrangea leaves, is thought to have magical powers that range from providing good health to warding off snakes.

Kamakura Festival

From the second to the third Sunday in April, the residents of Kamakura celebrate their town’s long history. On the second Sunday, a procession of mikoshi (portable shrines) travels along Wakamiya-oji to Hachiman-gu Shrine. On the same day, the Shizuka-no-Mai dance is performed on the shrine’s stage. The dance is based on one performed by Princess Shizuka over 800 years ago. She was caught in the middle of a battle for her affection by two Minamoto warlords, Yoshitsune and Yoritomo. When commanded to perform by Yoritomo, her dance showed her feelings of love for Yoshitsune. As a result Yoritomo imprisoned Shizuka and had her children killed. The dance is a beautiful, albeit tragic reminder of her life.

On the third Sunday in April (and also the 16th of September), displays of yabusame (horseback archery) take place beside Hachiman-gu Shrine. Historically, these events were a chance for the samurai to test their skills and impress the shogun with their prowess. Archers would gallop down a 200-meter long path while shooting arrows into three wooden targets. The feat of skill is just as demanding in the 21st century. The audience, however, is a little larger; the event now attracts thousands of spectators from all over Japan.

When to Go

Kamakura is at its most spectacular when the cherry blossom blooms in early April, or during the fall. At both times, the town will be very crowded, so either go on a weekday, or arrive early; otherwise you will be sharing Zen tranquility with bus tours and school groups.

Buddha’s Birthday is on April 8th, and the Kamakura Festival is held from the second to third Sunday in April. Hachiman-gu Shrine’s Festival is September 14-16, with the horseback archery on the final day.

Getting There

The Yokosuka train line connects Kamakura to Tokyo (\880, 55 minutes) and Yokohama (\320 25 minutes).

Getting Around

It is possible to walk to all the main sites around Kamakura. Start at Kita-Kamakura Station (one before stop before Kamakura) and walk south (via the Zen temples and Hachiman-gu) to Hase Shrine and the Daibutsu. Then it’s just a short walk back to the main Kamakura station. If you wish to explore the more remote temples and shrines in the east of Kamakura, then renting a bicycle is probably the best option.

Where to Stay

As Kamakura is less than an hour from Tokyo (shorter than the daily commute of many Tokyo-ites) most visitors make day trips. Accommodation in Kamakura is limited and expensive. If money is no object, and you want to live like a modern day shogun, Kamakura Prince Hotel and Kamakura Park Hotel are located on the bay with views of Mt. Fuji.

View all Kamakura images at Alamy.com